![]() ![]() The azure blue and lime green lines at the left of the photo go to the flash tube terminals. The dotted portions simply trace the circuit path when the conductor is hidden behind another conductor. I also traced the wiring diagram into the photo with different colored lines to differentiate the conductors and to make the circuit easy to follow. ![]() This photo shows the placement of the electronic parts. The paint was from an aerosol can of touch up paint for a 1963 Chevrolet. Do this a couple of times to be certain all charges are removed. Before handling internal parts use a screwdriver with a plastic insulated handle to remove the charges from the capacitor by shorting out the case or ground terminal to the "+" terminals of the capacitor. Be careful: this circuit makes use of high voltage. I eventually put timing marks on that mower so I could check it with this timing light before tearing the motor apart and learning it was not running for some other reason. When I hit one of those with my mower, it often sheared the flywheel key. Once we had a yard full of gopher mounds. I decided on an AC circuit because the circuit is simpler and because I can use the light on machines with a magneto ignition where there is likely no battery. Today you can use an Internet search to find replacement parts for xenon timing lights. In a few minutes I had the part numbers I needed and ordered them. To do that, I took the model number from a new unit on the shelf and went to their repair parts store. I got the lens and the xenon flash tube from Sears. Then I went to an electronics supply store and got most of the parts. ![]() While I had it, I opened it and made a diagram of the circuit. I borrowed a friend's AC powered timing light to use. Back in the 1970s I wanted a xenon timing light to replace the nearly useless neon timing light I had.
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